Post by cashmando1 on Sept 19, 2010 18:40:21 GMT -5
This weekend we had a women who came to our club to show us the way she has taught dumbbells for 14 years. For me it came at the perfect time, I was just going to start Cash on the dumbbell work. Anyways her female that she just retired never lost one point at a trial for the dumbbell exercises. To me that says a lot!! I really like this method because there is very little stress to the dog, it's actually fun for them. Anyways here are the 5 steps:
Step 1:
As with prey work in bitework, the same method is applied to active dumbbell training. With the dog tied out, the handler activates the dumbbell on the rope/leash, teasing the dog and making them bark and raising the frustration level to a point where they really want the dumbbell. At the point the dumbbell is slowly moved forward towards the dog saying bring repeatedly. When the dog is close enough to grab the dumbbell the handler says bring with a sharper louder voice. Let the dog grab the dumbbell and go into a tug o war game, keeping the right amount of tension to avoid chewing.
As in prey work, move yourself up the line, keeping tension, go to the hold position at your dogs side, see if they will hold and then give the out command and kick to resume the above. The session is usually ended with teasing the dog for the dumbbell and then unhooking the line from the dumbbell, throwing it and was it has landed unhook the dog and say bring, when the dog grabs it the handler says hier and run back to their vehicle..very similar to bitework. By the second or third session you will see the dog getting excited and start barking to activate the game.
Step 2:
Once the above is going well, you can add a quick sit during one of the pull back tug-o-wars. Once the dog sits, go back to the pulling game. Mix it up, sometimes sit/hold and other times simply pulling back and forth. To end either throw it again or just unhook the dumbbell and let them carry it to your vehicle.
Step 3:
Continue with the above. If they can sit calmly and hold the dumbbell without chewing, you can ask for a little bit longer sit each time.
Step 4:
Continue with the above and if the dog can sit/hold calmly in front of you from the pulling game when you say sit/hold, then you can try to step in front of the dog, keeping one step away and with your hands on the dumbbell rope, pull the dog into you (hier position) and say bring while assisting them into place. As soon as they are in place, reward with the tug-o-war game again.
Step 5:
Continue with the above, always playing the tug-o-war game to keep the dog in high drive for the dumbbell. When your dog starts showing that they want to push into you when you say either sit/hold or bring, then you can start to add a little throw and have them retrieve and bring in front. Have the dog hold the dumbbell in front without help from the handler on the line, and then reward with the tug-o-war game so that their prey drive is only satisfied when they bring the dumbbell to you.
Some points:
Most dogs that have been taught with the force hold or ear pinch method will show a fast go out to the dumbbell and then a slower return to their handlers this is because their prey drive has been satisfied once they get the dumbbell. This method teaches them bringing it to the handler is the most fun and rewarding.
If you think about how the obedience routine is set up in trial, the dumbbell is almost the last exercise and to keep your obedience in high drive, doing this method the dogs work harder during obedience because they know the dumbbell is coming and they look froward to it. They will start to build drive as they go through the routine, instead of losing drive worrying about the dumbbell exercise coming up.
How to make the dumbbell:
Screw and eye hook on each end, using rope attach to each eye hook and have the rope hang in the middle. So basically the rope will look like the letter Y, and the dumbbell would be at the top of that Y. At the end of the rope you will need a snap to attach it to the long line. Hopefully you will be able to see it better in the video.
Lynn
As soon as I load my video I will post it and show you Cash and I starting from the beginning. At first it was confusing for him, it totally ignored the dumbbell and just barked at her as though she should have had a sleeve on! But he did catch on once I changed positions with her and was the one swinging the dumbbell.
Step 1:
As with prey work in bitework, the same method is applied to active dumbbell training. With the dog tied out, the handler activates the dumbbell on the rope/leash, teasing the dog and making them bark and raising the frustration level to a point where they really want the dumbbell. At the point the dumbbell is slowly moved forward towards the dog saying bring repeatedly. When the dog is close enough to grab the dumbbell the handler says bring with a sharper louder voice. Let the dog grab the dumbbell and go into a tug o war game, keeping the right amount of tension to avoid chewing.
As in prey work, move yourself up the line, keeping tension, go to the hold position at your dogs side, see if they will hold and then give the out command and kick to resume the above. The session is usually ended with teasing the dog for the dumbbell and then unhooking the line from the dumbbell, throwing it and was it has landed unhook the dog and say bring, when the dog grabs it the handler says hier and run back to their vehicle..very similar to bitework. By the second or third session you will see the dog getting excited and start barking to activate the game.
Step 2:
Once the above is going well, you can add a quick sit during one of the pull back tug-o-wars. Once the dog sits, go back to the pulling game. Mix it up, sometimes sit/hold and other times simply pulling back and forth. To end either throw it again or just unhook the dumbbell and let them carry it to your vehicle.
Step 3:
Continue with the above. If they can sit calmly and hold the dumbbell without chewing, you can ask for a little bit longer sit each time.
Step 4:
Continue with the above and if the dog can sit/hold calmly in front of you from the pulling game when you say sit/hold, then you can try to step in front of the dog, keeping one step away and with your hands on the dumbbell rope, pull the dog into you (hier position) and say bring while assisting them into place. As soon as they are in place, reward with the tug-o-war game again.
Step 5:
Continue with the above, always playing the tug-o-war game to keep the dog in high drive for the dumbbell. When your dog starts showing that they want to push into you when you say either sit/hold or bring, then you can start to add a little throw and have them retrieve and bring in front. Have the dog hold the dumbbell in front without help from the handler on the line, and then reward with the tug-o-war game so that their prey drive is only satisfied when they bring the dumbbell to you.
Some points:
Most dogs that have been taught with the force hold or ear pinch method will show a fast go out to the dumbbell and then a slower return to their handlers this is because their prey drive has been satisfied once they get the dumbbell. This method teaches them bringing it to the handler is the most fun and rewarding.
If you think about how the obedience routine is set up in trial, the dumbbell is almost the last exercise and to keep your obedience in high drive, doing this method the dogs work harder during obedience because they know the dumbbell is coming and they look froward to it. They will start to build drive as they go through the routine, instead of losing drive worrying about the dumbbell exercise coming up.
How to make the dumbbell:
Screw and eye hook on each end, using rope attach to each eye hook and have the rope hang in the middle. So basically the rope will look like the letter Y, and the dumbbell would be at the top of that Y. At the end of the rope you will need a snap to attach it to the long line. Hopefully you will be able to see it better in the video.
Lynn
As soon as I load my video I will post it and show you Cash and I starting from the beginning. At first it was confusing for him, it totally ignored the dumbbell and just barked at her as though she should have had a sleeve on! But he did catch on once I changed positions with her and was the one swinging the dumbbell.
You have to be careful not to hit your dog. I should also add that Angie's dumbbell is wrapped with thin jute like rope in the middle. It's just a little easier on the dogs mouth, and the dumbbell. But it's not a requirement by any means.
I will try and get a video at some point. 
I was not looking forward to starting the dumbbell work. Then when our training director said that Angie was coming out to show us her way I was thrilled and relieved.
